Check the actual tip size and shape first before you blame the iron brand. A lot of these cheap pencil tips have almost no thermal mass, so the second it touches a big ground plane on an HDMI shield it dumps all its heat and never catches back up, even if the iron reads fine when it's just sitting there. Your multimeter test was smart but it only tells you what the tip does at rest, not what it does under load. Put a drop of solder on the tip and watch the temp with a thermocouple while you actually feed solder into a joint, and you'll see the real story. Half the guys buying Hakkos never needed one, they just needed a fat chisel tip and a station that can push watts back into the tip fast.

Watched a video from a bookbinder in Ohio who said the same thing about bone folders, that you should always score the fold first with a straightedge instead of just pressing it down. I tried it on a batch of chapbooks last year and the difference was night and day, no more cracked spines on the heavier stock. Before that I was doing the thumb crease thing too and wondering why my text blocks looked rough. It is one of those tips that takes two minutes to learn but nobody tells you until you have already wrecked a bunch of paper.