I finally figured out how to make a sleeve pattern that doesn't bunch up

For months, I kept getting this weird bunching under the arm on my woven shirts. I tried adjusting the armhole curve three times with no luck. Out of pure frustration, I cut a scrap of muslin into a 1-inch wide bias strip and sewed it into the seam allowance of the armhole before setting the sleeve. It acted like a stay tape and completely stopped the fabric from stretching out of shape. The sleeve set in perfectly flat on the next shirt I made. Has anyone else tried using bias strips as a quick fix for tricky armholes on non-stretch fabric?

3 comments

3 Comments

eric_price2mo ago

Hot take: Works like a charm. Longer: That "weird bunching under the arm" you mentioned is the worst. I fought with that on a chambray shirt for ages. The bias strip trick is basically making your own custom stay tape, which is so smart because it gives just the right amount of support without being stiff. I've used a strip of lightweight fusible interfacing cut on the bias for the same job. It's one of those little hacks that feels like finding a secret door in the middle of a wall.

holly_young351mo ago

Totally get the "secret door" feeling. I had that exact bunching on a vintage shirt and nearly gave up. What finally worked for me was a narrow strip of silk organza cut on the bias and hand stitched in. It's super light but has just enough grip to hold the curve. The bias lets it mold perfectly to the armscye without any pulling. It's been washed a bunch of times now and still looks flat.

parkergarcia2mo ago

Tbh that's a solid fix. I've used twill tape the same way on a linen shirt with great results.